Welt-shoe



. LAKE.

SHO

APPLICA. ILED JU |1917.

1,375,999 Patented Apr. 269 1921.

AInercial welt shoe CHARLES C. BLAKE, or BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS.

WELT-SHOE.

Specification ofLetters Patent.

Patented Amtes, iaai.

. Appiicatimaied rune s, 1917. seriai No. 173,489;

T0 all whom t may concern: o y

Be it known that l, CHARLES C. Bimini, a citizen of the Unitedy States, residing at Brookline, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented cer tain Improvements in VVelt-Shoes, of which the following description,inconnection with Groodyear. Y y v In making the .Blake welt shoe 'the upper is lasted to the edge face of the insole and then, in a subsequent operation, the welt is f secured to the lastedl shoe in such manner that the surfaces of the welt, upper and insole engaged by the outsole are in the same plane. When first constructed the Blake welt shoe-was not provided with a break in the upper adjacent the insole and consei quently the entire width of the welt was visible to the wearer of the shoe. By the break l mean the sharp bend between the curved portion of the upper shaped on the last and the straight portion of `the upper secured to the insole. This construction made the welt such a prominent feature of the shoe as to seriously detract from the appearance thereof and furthermore ledhthe wearer to believe that the shoe was a stitch down or some other radical departure from welt shoe construction.

The object of the present invention is to improve the appearance of the Blake welt shoe.

To the accomplishment of this object and such others as may hereinafter appear, the features of the present invention consist in certain combinations and arrangements of parts fully set forth hereinafter, the advantages of which will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art.

The various features of the present invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings, in which, t y

Figure l is a sectional perspective of the Blake welt shoe as heretofore constructed;

Fig. 2 is a plan of the shoe illustrated in Fig. 1;

, seam line, Fig. 3, and

commonly known as the Fig. 3 is a plan of the Blake welt shoe einlta'odying theA features of the present invenion.; f Fig. 4. is a sectional perspective, the section of the inseam being taken on the tip- F ig. 5 is adetail in sectional elevation `of the toe portionof the shoe.

In making the Blake welt shoe an insole l is secured to the bottom of a last 2. yAn

A'upper 3 is then lasted to the edge face 4 of the insole; The. term lasted is herein applied tofa shoe which has been subjected to all the steps in the process of lasting and refersspecifically .in the present case toa shoe having the 'upper secured in lasted posi tion; to theedge face of the insole by a fastening instrumentality, preferably cement.

The lasted shoe is then operated upon by a sewingmachine which attaches a welt 5y provided `with a longitudinal slit 6 to thev lasted shoe. To this end tongues 7 are formed in the exposed face 8 of the insole and thread 9 is laid in the slit 6, passed through the welt 5, upper 3 and insole l and looped over the tongues 7. When thefree edge of the upperis trimmed an outsole 10 is secured to the welted shoe. With this construction the faces of the welt, upper and insole engaged by the outsole are in the saine plane. ln my prior construction when the shoe in use was observed by the wearer thereof, the projections of the edge of the upper at the tip seam line l1 (Fig. 2) coincided with the joint l2 between the welt and upper. Consequently, the entire width of the welt was eXposedto view thereby making it such a prominent feature of the shoe as to seriously affect its appearance.

When this defect in the appearance of the Blake welt shoe was discovered, many attempts, using the knowledge ofthe art in making Goodyear welt shoes, were made to produce 'a break in the upper adjacent the insole in order to provide the shoe with an overhang. These attempts failed, however, principally because the break in the upper adjacent the insole was located between the welt and the insole. When this occurred, it was found that the folds in the material caused by the break produced such a thickness of stock that it seriously interfered with the operation of the sewing instrumentalities, employed to sew the welt to the lasted shoe, which were obliged to pierce directly through the break.

' tom of the last and the upper shaping surface thereof. With this construction the break 14 in theupper adjacent the insole is located above the foot engaging surface thereof in a position removed fromthe line of the inseam (Fig. 5).

From an inspection of Figs. 3, 4 and 5 it will be apparent that the welt 5 of the Blake welt shoe made on the last having the shoulder 13, is partially hidden beneath the upper. Stated in another way, when the shoe in use is observed by the wearer, the projections ef the edge of the upper at the tipseam line 15, (Fig. 3) fall outside the joint between the welt and the upper owing to the bulge or break in the upper around the forepart of the shoe. This construction reduces the amount of welt visible to the wearer thus I refining the appearance of the shoe and obviating any suggestion of departure from customary welt shoe manufacture. vFurthermore, as the last bottom is reduced in area,

considerable economy is effected in the use of the insole and outsole stock, as it will be obvious that smaller soles/are employed in making a certain size and style than in makiig the same size and style of the former s oe.

What is claimed as new, is:

`1. A welt shoe having its upper lasted to the edge face of the insole and its welt secured to the lasted shoe with the faces of the welt and insole engaged by the outsole in the same plane, and having a break in its upper, said break being adjacent the insole ancll located above the exposed face of the we t.

2. A welt shoe having its upper lasted to the edge face of the insole and its welt secured to the lasted shoe with the faces of the welt and insole engaged by the outsole in the same plane, and having the welt partially hidden beneath the upper.

3. A welt shoe having its upper lasted to the edge face of the insole and its welt secured to the lasted shoe with theV faces of the welt and insole engaged by the outsole in the same plane, said upper overhanging the welt around the forepart of the shoe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

CHARLES C. BLAKE. 

